I am pleased to announce on Tuesday June 9th I will be holding my first Vietnamese Pop Up at the Midtown Cafe of Santa Cruz, California! Phở (pronounced fuh) is a Vietnamese Beef Noodle Soup that has somewhat of cult following. I was introduced to Phở in my days in South Philadelphia, which has a vibrant Vietnamese community. The aromatic bowl of noodles, broth and steak is a healing and soothing meal that I now chase all around the country. Phở is surprisingly somewhat void in Santa Cruz and though there are a few acceptable but mediocre imitators about town, I have been craving the real deal. Thankfully the kind pop-up loving folks over at the Midtown Cafe were as thrilled as I was to bring authentic phở to Santa Cruz! In addition to Phở I'll be whipping up classic Vietnamese fare like Goi Cuon ('Summer Rolls'), Bun ('Vermicelli Bowl'), Com Tam Suon Nuong ('Broken Rice Platter'), Bánh Mì (Vietnamese Hoagie) and some not so classic delights like Crispy Kimchi Chicken Livers. I am also happy to be sourcing my beef and chicken from the lovely folks over at Markegard Family Grass-Fed. The Markegard's raise Belted Galloways on their gorgeous coastal ranch in Pescadero and their beef bones and sirloin steak will take this phở to the next level. I'll also be sourcing vegetables from Everett Family Farm, Happy Boy Farms and pork from Devils Gulch Ranch. This may be white girl Vietnamese but I have no intention of loosing any flavor in the translation. Join us next week at 5pm sharp!
SXSW Pig Roast Recipe Roundup
Yeehaw! My week in Texas has come to an end and I am happy to report a successful Pig Roast at Cipollina in Austin, Texas. The open-kitchen Italian Bistro is home to a passionate crew of culinary lovers and I am proud to have been apart of their kitchen for a couple of days. My bud from Philly, Steve Parke and I hatched this idea for the Pig Roast last month, secretly just wanting to hang out and cook awesome food. We did just that.
My week in Austin began after the 30 hour haul from Pennsylvania to Texas with my road dogs from Caravan. I got to Cipollina and immediately began to break down the beautiful 197 pound Countryside Farms Hog from Cedar Creek, Texas. With the help from Viktor, one of Cipollina's line cooks, we broke down the pig. Viktor's father Juan, who also works in the kitchen, inspected our butchering, correcting us occasionally as he finished his prep work for the day. Viktor's mother Maria, on the other side of the counter, picked herbes and kept a watchful eye on our progress. It was a lovely feeling to be surrounded by a family cooking together.
We butcher the pig, split the cavity, removed the remaining organs and separated the spine from ribs (Juan showed us his technique at this point) and finally halved the pig. We then took the front and hind quarters and separated them. We removed the skin, bones, and choice cuts, prepared meat for braising, stock and rubbed the belly with spices.
This is my third whole pig I've gotten to break down, my first in a commercial kitchen with a proper cleaver. We wrote out the menu, talked details and made empanadas and peach slab pie for street vending. I hustled sixth street with flyers in hand for a couple of nights and then Thursday the magic happened.
Al Pastor Empanadas
Dough
500 grams good Flour
50 grams Lard or Butter
2 tsp salt
4 oz hot water
In a large mixing bowl, add flour, lard and salt. If using butter make sure butter is diced. Slowly add hot water. Mix dough with clean hands. It will become flakey and stringy, mix until dough is smooth, add more hot water if necessary. Knead for about 5 minutes. Set in fridge for a half hour.
Al Pastor Filling
3-4 large onions, chopped
5 pounds ground pork
5 Guajillo Chillies
1 head garlic, minced
1- 7oz can Chipotle Chillies
8 oz frozen pineapple
1 cup orange juice
salt and cumin to taste
In a large sauce pan, brown onions, 10-15 minutes. Add ground pork and cook until browned. Add chillies, garlic, pineapple and simmer. Add orange juice. Season with salt and cumin. Simmer for 30 mins or a couple of hours for deeper flavors.
Roll out dough with rolling pin or pasta machine. Cut circles to desired size (shown in recipe: 4 inch diameter). Add about 2 large tablespoons of pork mixture. Rub water around edges of dough and crimp to close. Repeat till dough or filling is gone.
Egg Wash
2-4 egg yolks
Lay finished empanadas on parchment paper. Whisk egg yolk until smooth. With a pastry brush, wash the empanadas with whisked yolks (this will help them brown). Bake at 350 for 30 minutes or until golden.
Texas Slab Pie
Dough
470 grams good flour
1 1/2 tbsp sugar
1 1/2 tbsp salt
340 grams butter, diced
3/4-1 cup cold water
Mix flour, sugar and salt. Add butter and knead. Slowly add water until dough is smooth. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours until firm.
Spicy Peach Preserves
16 oz frozen peach slices
1/2-1 cup brown sugar
1 tsp clove, cinnamon, salt, to taste
1 tbsp red pepper flake
1 lemon, juiced and zested
In a large sauce pan add frozen peaches and brown sugar. once peaches are soft add spices and reduce liquid, or reserve extra liquid for an awesome simple syrup. Puree in food processor until slightly chunky. Set aside.
Roll pie dough to fit a large rectangular cookie sheet. Lay preserves atop, cut remaining for lattice crust, apply egg wash to crust (see egg wash recipe in the recipe above). In a 375 oven bake for 45-55 minutes until golden. Serve with ice cream!
Coffee Rubbed Pork Belly
Spice Rub
1/4 cup chili powder
1/4 cup finely ground coffee
2 tablespoons paprika
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
1 tablespoon ground coriander
Remove skin from Pork Belly. Cross score the fat. Set aside. Mix all ingredients and generously rub onto scored pork belly. Set aside.
Pork Belly
2 pounds pork belly
2 Carrots
3 stalks Celery
1/2 Red Onion (sliced)
1 16 oz can tomato
2 cans Texas Lone Star Beer
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop vegetables into large 1/2 inch chunks and set aside. In a Dutch oven or large cast iron, heat a heavy pour of olive oil and add prepared belly, fat side down. Once deep brown, flip to other side. Add vegetables. Pour in beer. Place uncovered in oven. Cook for two hours and serve atop of slaw.
Carbonara
1 pound fresh or dry spaghetti
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 oz pork belly
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 egg yolks, whisked
1 handful spinach
1 cup pecorino cheese
parsley and pecorino, to finish
Cook pasta according to directions, reserving a 1/2 cup of pasta water for sauce. Heat the olive oil in a skillet, add pork belly, and saute for 3 minutes until crisp. Add garlic. Immediately add hot spaghetti to pan and add whisked egg yolks and cheese. Make sure spaghetti is covered with sauce and add spinach and reserved pasta water. Simmer for 5 minutes or until thickened. Garnish with shaved Pecorino and parsley. Serve immediately.
Porca Puttana Pizza
1 pre-made pizza dough
1/2 cup Onion Jam
1/2 cup premade Pulled Pork
1/4 cup pickled shallots
1/2 ricotta or mascarpone
1 tablespoon each of parsley, basil, tarragon, chopped
Roll out prepared pizza dough. Add a dash of olive oil on the dough. Add onion jam, layer pulled pork, shallots, cheese, and finish with bbq sauce. Brush crust with olive oil and bake at 425 degrees for 20 minutes until crispy. Finish with fresh herbes.
Onion Jam
5 onions, caramelized, about 20-30 minutes
1/2 cup pork stock
In a food processor, add onions and pork stock pulse until smooth or desired consistency.
Pork Belly with Fennel Slaw
Menu development is one of my favorite parts of hosting dinners. When you find those recipes that are endlessly perfect, I just can't wait to bring it to a crowd. My Ma made me this Pork Belly with Fennel Slaw for Sunday Supper last week. My family devoured every last bit of pork belly, leaving nothing but a bit of slaw.
Pork Belly is essentially just uncured bacon. It has lovely fat marbling that adds tremendous flavor to just about anything. The fennel slaw cuts through the richness of the belly with its aromatic flavor and echoes the toasted fennel seed in the dry rub. I prepared this last night as tacos and again, not a single morsel left. Serve as an appetizer or simply braise the belly for tacos and sandwiches. Catch this recipe on our pre fixe tasting menu at Cipollina in Austin for the #SXSWPIGROAST
PORK BELLY WITH FENNEL SLAW
adapted form Mario Botali
RUB
1/2 cup Brown Sugar
2 tablespoons Fennel (toasted and ground)
3 tablespoons Salt
3 tablespoons Rosemary (finely chopped)
1 tablespoon crushed Red Pepper Flakes
Remove skin from Pork Belly. Cross score the fat. Set aside. Mix all ingredients and generously rub onto scored pork belly. Set aside.
BRAISE
2 pounds Pork Belly (skin removed)
2 Carrots
3 stalks Celery
1/2 Red Onion (sliced)
2 Fennel Stalks
1 tablespoon Fennel Seeds
1 bottle Beer
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 Carrots
3 stalks Celery
1/2 Red Onion (sliced)
2 Fennel Stalks
1 tablespoon Fennel Seeds
1 bottle Beer
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop vegetables into large 1/2 inch chunks and set aside. In a Dutch oven of large cast iron, heat a heavy pour of olive oil and add prepared belly, fat side down. Once deep brown, flip to other side. Add vegetables. Pour in beer. Place uncovered in oven. Cook for two hours and serve atop of slaw.
FENNEL SLAW
1 small head green cabbage, shredded
1 head red cabbage, shredded
1 Red Onion, sliced
1 bulb Fennel, thinly sliced
1/4 cup Mint, chopped
1/4 cup Basil Leaves, chopped
1 teaspoon Red Pepper Flakes
2 tablespoons Honey
2 tablespoons Apple Cider Vinegar
Salt and freshly ground Pepper
Shred slice and chop vegetables and herbes. Mix together with seasonings and stir to combine. Set aside.
BBQ SAUCE
1 cup reserved braising drippings
5 cups apple cider
1-2 cups ketchup
Juice of 1/2 Lemon
1/2 cup Brown Sugar
1/4 cup Mustard
3 tablespoons Soy Sauce
3 cloves Garlic
Remove belly from braise. Drain vegetables and place remaining juice in a gravy separator. The jus and the fat will separate. Pour off as much fat as possible and reserve. In a medium sauce pan heat pork jus on medium heat. Add all ingredients while constantly tasting. Adjust flavors to your liking. Simmer until thick. Pour atop sliced Pork Belly. Serve immediately.
SXSW Pig Roast
I am please to announce my first Texas Pig Roast for SXSW! Join us March 19th at Cipollina in West Austin for a celebration of a well fed hog from Countryside Farm in Cedar Creek, Texas, just 20 miles from Austin. Country Side Farm humanely raises their pigs outdoors where they are free to roam and forage the land. They specialize in heritage hogs like Duroc and New Hampshires with genetics tracing back to the 1800's. I am excited to make use of Cipollina's Wood Fired oven with pizzas, empanadas and porchettas to honor these animals.
Follow @eclkdomestic for locations on Secret Street Eats
Botany in the Limelight Recipe Round Up
My head has finally stopped spinning after the decadent Friday evening that was Botany in the Limelight at Peace Tree Farm. I can't really put to words how much fun I had putting this dinner together. I simply love bringing passionate people from the farming collective together and showcasing their amazing products. Its a real dream for a cook. That being said I have been getting a lot of recipe requests from guests and since I believe that cooking is a lifeskill that everyone is entitled too, I want to share some of my recipes from the dinner. Within all of these recipes, I would like to point out the importance of freshness in the ingredients. My food is good because I use top quality local products for my dinners. It is vital that the ingredients you use be of sound practice. The finest quality beef, dairy and produce make all the difference.
One of my favorite features of the dinner was our live salad bar from the green house. Alex cultivated all of our greens for that evening in the green house and we did not harvest until we were about to plate. We used a mix of pea shoot and spring mix as well as baby herbs like thai basil. Most greens that we get this time of year have been shipped out of from California and are at least 5 day old. The freshness makes all the difference!
I have also been asked how I put this menu together in terms of coursing. I love the tradition of ending a meal with cheese. I was taught this by many french chefs and always find that I experience the cheese more fully after a well balanced meal. Here are a few of my favorite recipes from the dinner:
Recipe Round Up
Spicy Ginger Simple Syrup
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
4 tsp. crushed red pepper flakes
1 cup fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
Combine sugar, red pepper flakes, ginger, and 2 cups water in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low, and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove pan from heat, cover, and steep for 30 minutes. Strain ginger syrup into a jar. Serve with seltzer or whisky, or both...
Alex's French Breakfast Radish with Fresh Butter
a dozen french breakfast radishes
1 pint good heavy cream (I used seven star farm)
salt to taste
In a mixer, mix cream on high, past the point of whipped cream, about 5 minutes. Roll radishes in salt and then spread a teaspoon of butter atop. Enjoy immediately!
Scrappletizer
4 cups venison scraps
2 cups venison stock
1 cups corn meal
1/4 cup buckwheat flour
1/4 cup lard
1 tbsp herbes de provence
salt and pepper, to taste
In a medium sized pot, boil venison scraps in venison stock. If chunky puree with immersion blender or food processor. Add corn meal and cook until boiled. Add buckwheat flour, lard and seasonings. Scrap into loaf pan and freeze. Cut to serve.
Mushroom Puff
1 pound Puff Pastry
Cut 1/2 inch circles of the puff pastry with a cookie cutter. In a greased mini muffin pan, lay each puff pastry circle into pan creating a little dish. Poke with fork 2 times to allow air to escape. Lay a teaspoon of pate on base of puff pastry and then add a teaspoon of mushrooms. Repeat process till you run our of puff pastry! Bake at 350 for 10 minutes or until golden.
Bleu Cheese Pecan Spread
8 oz good cream cheese
2 cups blue cheese dressing
1 cup chopped pecans, toasted
4 oz crumbled blue cheese
Beat cream cheese in medium bowl until smooth. Add dressing. Stir in 1 cup pecans and crumbled blue cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spread on fresh pears or apples.
Crispy Shallots
16 shallots, cut lengthwise into rings
3 cups vegetable oil
In a cast iron skillet, place shallots. Add oil and bring to a simmer. Stir until shallots are golden. Remove and place on paper towel. Stay crispy for 3 days in airtight container.
Lavender Short Bread
1 cup sugar
1/4 cup honey
1 pound butter
6 teaspoon lavender, roughly chopped
4 large egg yolk
4 teaspoon vanilla extract
4 cup all purpose flour
1 teaspoon flakey sea salt
Cream the sugar, honey and butter. Add lavender, egg yolk and vanilla. Mix till combine. Slowly add the flour and the salt to the wet ingredients. Lay out a piece of plastic wrap and roll the dough into a log about 1 1/2 inches in diameter. Freeze for about a half hour. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees. Remove dough from the freezer, slice, and bake for 7 to 8 minutes. The edges will turn slightly golden. Cool on rack and enjoy with tea or make an ice cream sandwich!
Photos by JOI Photography & Lloyd Traven