The Wild Heart of Spring: A Feast of Light

March 9, 2018

Saturday, April 7th 2018 - 5:00 pm

Come celebrate the changing light with a feast for the senses. For this unique dining experience, I will be preparing a 6-course meal teeming with all the wild abundance of a spring harvest. Served in an intimate, immersive banquet installation set to the narration and music musings of author Nick Jaina, this is sure to be an evening to captivate the hearts, minds, and palates of those who join us to taste the Wild Heart of Spring.

I look forward to celebrating with my California community through food, art, and music at lille æske. After farming in Boulder Creek in 2014, I routinely return to the San Lorenzo Valley to collect my favorite ingredients from the region; where the local landscape and community inspire my cooking style. After completing my 2016 James Beard Women in Culinary Leadership grant, I continued to further my culinary education in Pennsylvania. I have been mentoring with outstanding chefs and most recently finished a local whole animal butchering apprenticeship with Primal Supply Meats in Philadelphia. This will be my third dinner at lille æske. I look forward to serving you at the table!

Tickets

Spring Onion Ragu

Warm Bitter Greens

November in Photos + Recipes

December 21, 2015

WEST

The Pink Lady Cake from The Madonna Inn// San Luis Obispo, California

Ronja the Robber's Daughter// Santa Cruz, California

Chocolate Moon by Chef Kendra Baker of Assembly// Santa Cruz, California — Chocolate Moon by Chef Kendra Baker of Assembly// Santa Cruz, California

Justin Williams reaches for the sky// Big Sur, California

Pfeiffer Perfection// Big Sur, California

Wild(er) Sunset//Santa Cruz, California — Wild(er) Sunset//Santa Cruz, California

Hachiya Persimmons//SantaCruz, California — Hachiya Persimmons//SantaCruz, California

Fall Feelings// Pescadero, California — Fall Feelings// Pescadero, California

Marta fait Quiche// Santa Cruz, California

Marta's Quiche

Crust

pâte brisée

2 cups flour

1 cup butter*

1/4 cup water

pinch o' sugar

*pinch o' salt if butter is not salted

In a medium mixing bowl gradually work the butter, salt and sugar into the flour. Once the mixture is combined, add water accordingly so that mixture is wet enough to stick together in a ball. Shape dough to evenly cover glass pie pan- I use my hands, however you may prefer to roll dough out using a rolling pin.

Filling

6 eggs

1 cup heavy cream

salt&pepper

2 cups packed fresh baby spinach (chopped)

1 pound bacon (cooked & crumbled)

1 log fresh goat cheese

salt & pepper, to taste

Method

Preheat oven to 375F. Roll out dough to cover a 9 inch glass pie pan. Chop spinach. Cook bacon, strain off excess fat and cut into bit sized pieces. Toss spinach & bacon together, add to prepared pie pan. Sprinkle goat cheese a top. In separate bowl, whisk eggs, cream, salt & pepper. Pour combo over spinach, bacon & cheese mixture. Bake in oven at 375F for 35-45min until egg mixture is set.

Camp Joy Gardens// Boulder Creek, California

Crispy Parsnips

5-10 parsnips, julienned

1 cup vegetable oil

pinch salt

In a cast iron skillet add julienned parsnips and cover with oil. Turn to medium high heat and allow the oil to gradually fry the parsnips. Remove parsnips from oil once golden, about 10-15 minutes. Lay on brown paper bag and sprinkle with salt. These are tasty on their own or atop your favorite dish that needs some added texture.

Caramel Budino with Apple Cider Caramel

makes about 8 budinos

Crust

Caramel Budino with Apple Cider Caramel, Dates + Walnuts//Boulder Creek, California

8 half pint mason jars

1 cup walnuts

1/2 cup dates

sugar

salt

Prepare mason jars: Chop walnuts and dates. Add a sprinkle of sugar and salt. Pack the bottom of each jar with about 2 tablespoons of crust mixture. Set aside.

Budino

3 cups whole milk, divided

1/4 cup cornstarch

3/4 cup (packed) dark brown sugar

5 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 teaspoon salt

Whisk 1/2 cup milk and cornstarch in a small bowl; set aside. Heat remaining 2 1/2 cups milk in a small saucepan just to a simmer; set aside.

To make caramel, stir sugar and 3/4 cup water in a heavy saucepan over medium heat until sugar dissolves. Increase heat; cook without stirring until an instant-read thermometer registers 210°–220°.

Whisk egg yolks in a large bowl. Gradually whisk in hot milk, then cornstarch mixture. Slowly whisk in caramel. Return mixture to saucepan. Whisk constantly over medium heat until mixture thickens and a thermometer registers 175°, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat; whisk in butter, rum, and salt. Pour into prepared mason jars. Allow to cool.

Apple Cider Caramel

adapted from Smitten Kitchen

4 cups good apple cider

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 teaspoons Maldon salt

1 stick good unsalted butter

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup brown sugar

1/3 cup heavy cream

In a medium sauce pan, reduce 4 cups of apple cider for 40 minutes until you have about 1/2 cup. Once cider is reduced stir in butter, sugar and cream and bring to a boil, stirring rapidly. Remove from heat. Allow to cool but not solidify. Pour a top prepared budino jars. Cover with jar lids and allow to cool in the fridge for 5 hours or overnight.

*If Budino does not set, it is because the cornstarch was not activated in the cooking process. Cornstarch must be cooked to 95°C (203°F) before thickening begins. At that point, it usually thickens fairly quickly and the sauce turns from opaque to transparent. When cornstarch thins after it's thickened, it's usually due to continued stirring. Once the thickening network forms, any agitation interferes with the setting process. The sauce thins when the starch network that sets and traps the liquid is broken. Liquid is released and thins the sauce. (I learned this the hard way.)

Surprise Course by Theo + Eloise// Boulder Creek, California

Roasted Eggplant with Pomegranate, Mint and Preserved Lemon// Boulder Creek, California

The San Lorenzo Kingdom//Santa Cruz Mountains, California

Pop Up @ Pop Up// Santa Cruz, California

The lovely Justin Williams of Inquiry Cafe cheesin' with our Pop Up Menu// Santa Cruz, California

Five Spice Magic// Santa Cruz, California

Pho

Equipment needed-

Large Stock Pot, Butter Muslin, Colander

Stock Base-

The Goods, Eclectik Domestic Pho//Santa Cruz, California

Serves about 8

2 large onions, split

1 large knob ginger, split

5 pounds good beef bones (shin/knuckle bones)

Spice Pack-

4 cinnamon sticks

6 tablespoons coriander

6 tablespoons fennel seed

5 whole star anise

6 cardamom pods

10 cloves

Season-

4 oz salt, to taste

6 oz sugar, to taste

1/4 cup fish sauce

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. On a sheet pan laid with parchment paper, lay out bones in a single layer. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown. On a cast iron skillet or another sheet pan, char onions and ginger, until almost black. In a large stock add bones, onions and ginger. Cover completely with water, plus a little more and bring to a boil. Meanwhile toast spices until fragrant, wrap in butter muslin & knot. Add to stock pot. In the first hour while bones come to a boil, remove any foam that rises to the top. Add salt, sugar, fish sauce and allow to simmer for 3 to 6 hours tasting frequently. Adjust seasoning to taste.

To Serve-

2 packages Banh Pho, flat rice noodles*

1-3 pound lean beef (london broil, eye round), sliced thin**

1 bunch cilantro

1 bunch scallion, sliced into discs

Handful pickled yellow onions

Garnish-

1 jalapeño, sliced thin

1 cup mung beans

1 bunch Thai basil

2 limes, cut into wedges

Hoison & Sriracha

In a pot of boiling water (about 6 cups), cook noodles for about 5 minutes, tasting for firmness, every minute. Submerge in cold water. Place in large bowl. Atop noodles, place raw thinly slice beef, cilantro, scallion, red onion and pour piping hot broth a top. Serve aside, jalapeños, mung beans, thai basil, limes, and hoision and sriracha. Enjoy!!!!

*ingredients should only be rice, water & salt

**to make cutting thin slices easier, firm up the beef by placing it in the freezer for 15 minutes

The American Way// Santa Cruz, California

EAST

Back to Pennsylvania// Solebury, Pennsylvania

Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse Grass-fed beef of Milford, New Jersey. This animal's sacrifice filled the bellies of over 250 guests// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania — Bobolink Dairy & Bakehouse Grass-fed beef of Milford, New Jersey. This animal's sacrifice filled the bellies of over 250 guests// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania

Salad green beauties locally grown in Pennsylvania by my favorites at Peace Tree Farm// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania

Roasted Garlic// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania

Use a sheet pan to cut cake to desired sizes// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania

115 apple cakes ready to go!// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania — 115 apple cakes ready to go!// Plumsteadville, Pennsylvania

Apple Cider Cake

2 cups sugar

1-1/2 cups butter, softened

6 eggs

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 cup apple cider

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat oven to 325F. In a large bowl, cream butter and sugars until fluffy. Add eggs one at a time. Combine all dry ingredients and add to butter mixture. Add cider and vanilla and mix until combined. On a parchment paper lined sheet pan (13*9), pour dough in center and making sure it is even. Bake at 325 for about an hour or until form. Allow to cool and cut cakes to desired size. Serve with caramel or vanilla ice cream!

Hannakah at Bobolink// Milford, New Jersey

Blue Jay Way// Upper Black Eddy, Pennsylvania

Canal Reflections// Upper Black Eddy, Pennsylvania

Thanks to St. Roch// New Orleans, Louisiana

October in Photos + Recipes

November 12, 2015

NEW YORK

King's County Saloon// Brooklyn, New York

Flying Pig Farms Half Hog// Brooklyn, New York

SweetWater IPA Braised BBQ PORK

RUB

2 pounds Bone In Pork Shoulder

1/2 cup Brown Sugar

3 tablespoons Salt

1 tablespoon crushed Red Pepper Flakes

Mix all ingredients and generously rub onto shoulder. Set aside.

BRAISE

3 bottles of SweetWater IPA Beer

1/2 head cabbage, chopped

2 onions, chopped

1 bulb fennel, chopped

olive oil

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Chop vegetables into large 1/2 inch chunks and set aside. In a Dutch oven or large cast iron, heat a heavy pour of olive oil and add prepared pork shoulder until golden. Add vegetables. Pour in beer. Place uncovered in oven. Cook for two hours or until tender.

BBQ SAUCE

1 cup reserved beer braising drippings

1-1/2 cup apple cider

1-2 cups ketchup

Juice of 1/2 Lemon

1/2 cup Brown Sugar

1/4 cup Mustard

3 tablespoons Soy Sauce

3 cloves Garlic

Remove shoulder from braise. Drain vegetables and place remaining juice in a gravy separator. The jus and the fat will separate. Pour off as much fat as possible and reserve. In a medium sauce pan heat pork jus on medium heat. Add all ingredients while constantly tasting. Adjust flavors to your liking. Simmer until thick. Pour atop pulled pork. Serve immediately.

Private Tasting in the Kitchen at Kings County Saloon// Brooklyn, New York

Grits

2 cups good grits

8 cups water

2 bay leaf

1/2 stick butter

salt, to taste

For best results soak grits over night in a large pot for 8 hours. If you're in a rush, soak for at least at hour.

Add bay leaf. Retaining the water from soaking, bring to high heat. Stirring constantly, bring grits to a boil. Remove from heat and let stand for 10 minutes covered. Bring back to heat and cook for an additional 45 minutes, tasting constantly, until grits reach desired consistency. Add butter and salt and serve with cheese, red pepper, and pepper.

Castle Valley Mill Yellow Grots with Bay Leaf

SweetWater Brewing's Hop Hash Beer Cookies

Spread cookie batter out on baking sheet for easy cutting

250 grams all-purpose flour

2 grams baking soda

3 grams salt

170 grams unsalted butter, melted

220 grams packed brown sugar

100 grams white sugar

15 ml vanilla extract

1 egg

1 egg yolk

335 grams semisweet chocolate chips

1/2 cup SweetWater Hop Hash Beer

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Measure and combine flour, baking soda, salt in a medium sized mixing bowl. Cream butter and sugar until combine. Add vanilla and eggs. In thirds, slowly add dry ingredients. Stir in chocolate chips and beer. On a parchment lined baking sheet, spread out batter. Bake at 350 degrees for 10-15 minutes or until golden. Cut cookies to desired size.

GEORGIA

Chef Angus Brown's Pulled Darby Chicken with Heirloom Beans, last of the season cherry tomatoes, fried Okra and okra flowers from Love is Love Farm// Decatur, Georgia

Dolly Bars

1/2 cup (1 stick) salted butter, cut into large pieces
1 1/2 cups graham crackers crumbs (about 8 graham crackers, crushed)
3 cups dark chocolate chips
1 cup shredded coconut
1 cup pecans, coarsely chopped
1/3 cup sweetened condensed milk

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Melt butter in a small pan. Add to graham cracker crumbs. Mix and press evenly into the bottom of 8×8 baking pan. Layer coconut, pecans, and chocolate chips on top of graham crackers. Pour sweetened condensed milk over whole mixture. Bake in oven for 25 to 30 minutes or until the top is light brown. Once cooled, cut into small squares and put in mini cupcake wrappers.

Okra Flowers//  Decatur, Georgia — Okra Flowers// Decatur, Georgia

MISSISSIPPI

The Outstanding Chef Lineup// Oxford, Mississippi

Chef Ryan Prewitt's Gulf Snapper with Remoulade and Mint// Oxford, Mississippi

Zinnias + Butterflies// Oxford, Mississippi

LOUISIANA

Don Coyote at Siberia Club// New Orleans, Louisiana

St Roch Cemetery// New Orleans, Louisiana

Live Oak in City Park// New Orleans, Louisiana

Bald Cypress Trees at Chicot State Park// Ville Platte, Louisiana

Gators at Chicot State Park// Ville Platte, Louisiana

Chicot State Park// Ville Platte, Louisiana

Campsite Fixins', Black eyed Peas, Feta and Satsuma// Ville Platte, Louisiana

TEXAS

CHEF JUSTIN YU'S CARROT STEW

BY JUSTIN YU

The recipe was a little loose, but here's the gist of it, I scaled it down a bit:

Aromatics

1# ginger, skin and all, chopped

1# galangal, skin on, chopped

.5# lemongrass, hard tips cut off, chopped

1# shishito peppers, stemmed

3 ea large shallots, halved

1 head garlic, peeled

Spices

1 T ground cinnamon

2 t dill seed, ground

2 T paprika

1 T black pepper, fine ground

1 T coriander seed, ground

salt to taste

Grind all the spices and mix together. Set aside.

In a blender, blend all the aromatics together. Make sure the peppers are on the bottom of the blender so it doesn't break the blender trying to grind all the roots. You can use a little water to thin it out so it blends smoothly. Blend for about 1 minute per batch. It should look like a thick smoothie.

Heat up a large pot with a good amount of oil to cover the bottom of the pan, about half an inch up from the pan bottom so that you'll almost be shallow frying, Make sure the oil is past smoking point (I like grapeseed) and very wavy.

Add all the aromatics. The pan should be ripping hot and there should be a high pitched screeching sound when it goes in. Continually stir with a spatula until very aromatic, cooking on high heat. The idea is just to cook out all the water as quickly as possible. You can see this happening when little bubbles start to pop as opposed to big bubbles.

When the mixture gets aromatic, take the mixture off the heat. Add the untoasted spices and return to the heat for about 3-5 minutes. Pull off the heat again and steep aromatics and spices while cooling down the mixture.

This result is almost like a curry paste or base. You can keep this in the cooler and it'll hold for a while. When you cook with it, you can cook it with pretty much anything, Just thin it out with coconut milk and lime juice.

For the carrots to get that texture from the stew we did, you have to caramelize them in a convection oven at 325 for about 20 minutes then turn down the oven to 275 and cook them so they take on an almost hollow texture. You can cut it up them and rehydrate in the curry stew when you add the coconut. It's great with a lot of different things.

Regal Jumping Spider + Glassware// Fields Store, Texas

Abby's Mesquite and Top Texas Apple Butter Ice Cream Sandwiches// Austin, Texas

CALIFORNIA

Breakfast Burrito Land// Cayucos, California

Marta the Water Bearer// Cayucos, California — Marta the Water Bearer// Cayucos, California

Shadow Friends// Joshua Tree, California

Clara in Light// Joshua Tree, California

Marta on the Peak// Joshua Tree, California

Bartholomew The Barrel Cactus// Joshua Tree, California

A Full Moon Feast at  lille æske gallery in Boulder Creek, CA Photo by Adriane White Photography — A Full Moon Feast at lille æske gallery in Boulder Creek, CA Photo by Adriane White Photography

July Journeys

July 28, 2015

I've been trying to catch my breath since we left Santa Cruz, just a little over 2 weeks ago and headed into the Pacific Northwest. Every time I enter location points onto my trave map, we drive another couple hundred miles, and my sense of place in the country shifts once again. It has been liberating to find myself back on the road, its simplicity one I find comfort in. In this section of the country my time has exclusively been devoted to Outstanding in the Field. We have held 7 events in over 3 states and even crossed the border into Canada. The landscape of the Pacific Northwest was one I was unfamiliar with until this tour and it has been thrilling to put geography and memories into this corner of the world.

Cosmic Garlic at Camp Joy Garden. Boulder Creek CA — Cosmic Garlic at Camp Joy Garden. Boulder Creek CA

Clara & I at Moore Creek Preserve. Santa Cruz, CA — Clara & I at Moore Creek Preserve. Santa Cruz, CA

Full Moon. Santa Cruz, CA — Full Moon. Santa Cruz, CA

Desperately Seeking Symmetry. Henry Cowell State Park, Felton, CA — Desperately Seeking Symmetry. Henry Cowell State Park, Felton, CA

Camp Joy Garlic Curing under the Yum Yum Tree. Boulder Creek, CA — Camp Joy Garlic Curing under the Yum Yum Tree. Boulder Creek, CA

Je Suis Marta. Santa Cruz, CA — Je Suis Marta. Santa Cruz, CA

RICE COOKER GRITS

8 cups Milk, Stock or Water

2 cups Grits

1 cup Cheddar

handful Basil, chopped

Salt, Pepper & Red Chili Flake, to taste

In a rice cooker, add 2 cups grits and cover with 8 cups of liquid. Turn rice cooker to 'cook' and make sure it stays on 'cook' mode, not 'warm'. If your rice cooker has a weight oriented timer use something to override the mechanism like a piece of cardboard. Stir every couple of minutes, checking the grits texture often. Grits may take anywhere from 10 minutes to a half hour depending on rice cooker so you gotta watch it. Finish with cheese, basil and seasonings. If you have some extra time, let the grits stand in the liquid before cooking for a couple of hours.

Santa Rosa Plums from Camp Joy Gardens. Boulder Creek, CA — Santa Rosa Plums from Camp Joy Gardens. Boulder Creek, CA

Albacore Tuna. Cucumber. Musk Melons + Jalapeños by Chef Tim Wastell. Gaston, OR — Albacore Tuna. Cucumber. Musk Melons + Jalapeños by Chef Tim Wastell. Gaston, OR

Big Trees. Henry Cowell State Park, Felton, CA — Big Trees. Henry Cowell State Park, Felton, CA

At the start of this jaunt, I left my home in Santa Cruz and many people and places I love. The Central Coast has proven to be a vibrant powerhouse of agriculture and I was sad to have to miss the summers bounty. Happily I did get to play with some of summer's abundance at a meal I hosted called 'A Full Moon Feast' at the charming lille æske gallery in Boulder Creek, California. The meal was an absolutely dream for me, as the intimate setting allowed me to utilize many of my favorite farms and artisan products on my menu, including goat cheese and produce from Camp Joy Gardens where my culinary journey in California landed just last year. The dinner was a tasting of many of my friends and colleges of the areas vegetables, fruit, cheese wine and pickles. It was so happy to have my friends support at the dinner. My Camp Joy ladies were critical to expediting my dinner and I was thrilled with some of the recipes we came up with.

A Full Moon Feast at lille æske gallery. Boulder Creek, CA. Photo by Adriane White Photography — A Full Moon Feast at lille æske gallery. Boulder Creek, CA. Photo by Adriane White Photography

Assembling the Tomate Tartes, rye curst, dijion, caramelized onions, confited tomatoes — Assembling the Tomate Tartes, rye curst, dijion, caramelized onions, confited tomatoes

Mama's Tomate Tarte

My Mom, a bonafide Jersey tomato girl, gave me the recipe for her legendary confit tomatoes once tomatoes started rolling in this year. I was excited to apply it to one of my favorite thing to prepare, the hand pie. In my years of street vending food, there is a phenomenon I've noticed that people always seem to freak out for a personal portion. I believe that something about it makes them feel special, like you made it specifically for them. The day of the dinner Marta had just flown into town and we spent the morning recipe testing this tomato pie. She recommended I add have a swipe of dijion mustard to the crust before baking, as one of her Parisian friends, Cami had always done and we decided the pies should be individually portioned as opposed to slices of a 9' pie. It was much more involved of a preparation but it was worth it.

RYE CRUST

Makes about 25 3' Hand Pies or 2 9' pies

300 grams good all purpose flour

200 grams rye flour

100 grams cold butter, cubed

1 teaspoon salt

4 oz water, as needed

In a large mixing bowl, combine flours. Add butter, salt and with clean hands, knead dough together. Once dough is flakey, add water and knead until dough is smooth, you may have to add a bit more water. Roll into a ball & cover with plastic wrap. Place in fridge for an hour or until ball is firm.

CONFIT TOMATE

1 lb. 6 oz. Cherry Tomatoes

3 cloves Garlic, smashed

half a cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil

2 tablespoons of Balsamic Vinegar

1 tablespoon fresh Thyme

2 teaspoons packed Light Brown Sugar

1 teaspoon Salt

CARAMELIZED ONIONS

2 tablespoons Butter

5 large Onions, chopped

1 cup old Wine, (I used pinot noir)

red pepper flake, salt & pepper, to taste

1/2 cup mustard

Preheat oven 325. Mix together tomatoes and garlic in a non-reactive 9 x 13" baking dish. Whisk together oil, vinegar, thyme, brown sugar and salt in a bowl and drizzle over tomato mixture. Bake until tomatoes are softened and caramelized, about an hour. Place tomatoes in a colander to drain off excess oil. Set aside. Reserve excess oil for a delicious salad dressing or a top just about anything!

In a medium cast iron skillet over medium high heat, add butter. Once butter is melted, add onions. Cook for 10-15 minutes or until onions start to brown and stick to the bottom of the skillet. Deglaze the pan by adding the wine to the hot pan and scrapping the bottom of the skillet to pull up the flavor. Cook until liquid has started to thicken and reduce until there is no longer any more visible liquid, about 5 minutes. Season with red pepper flake, salt + pepper and set aside.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Grease a 9 inch pie pan or mini 3 inch pie pans. Roll dough out to desired tarte size and fold into buttered baking dish. Swipe the bottom of the crust with dijion and spoon in onions and tomatoes. Bake at 350 for 10-20 minutes depending on size, checking crust often for crispness. Cool & enjoy!

Niçoise Salade Rainbow with Everett Potatoes + Pickle Girls Beets + Eggs with Happy Boy Radishes, Camp Joy Greens + anchovies with Tomato Confit — Niçoise Salade Rainbow with Everett Potatoes + Pickle Girls Beets + Eggs with Happy Boy Radishes, Camp Joy Greens + anchovies with Tomato Confit

Cheese & Fruit, Point Reyes Bleu, Cypress Grove Creamy Humboldt Fog + Midnight Moon with Everett Figs, Blue House Raspberries and Happy Boy Melons

The Show Bill Photo by Adriane White Photography — The Show Bill Photo by Adriane White Photography

Elijahs Secret Chevre with edible flowers + Onion Jam and Pickled Red Onion Photo by Adriane White Photography — Elijahs Secret Chevre with edible flowers + Onion Jam and Pickled Red Onion Photo by Adriane White Photography

Appetizers Galore Photo by Adriane White Photography — Appetizers Galore Photo by Adriane White Photography

Pickle Girl's Pickled Beets + Eggs

Emily Eder has been pickling for years in the central coast. Her knack for recipe production and distinct palette gives her pickles an incredible uniqueness that brings any dish to life. She most recently developed the Pantry Program at The Cremer House of Felton, California.

BEETS

7lb beets boiled & peeled
1 yellow onion halved and sliced
Two 4" cinnamon sticks
1 tbsp. all spice berries
1 tsp cloves
1 tbsp whole star anise

BRINE
1 cups sugar
1 cup light brown sugar
2 tsp kosher salt
1 quart apple cider vinegar
2 cups water

In a large resealable jar, add beets and spices. In a medium stock pot prepare the brine. Combine sugars, salt, vinegar and water. Cook until sugar is disolved. Pour over beets. Can if desired or store in fridge for 2 weeks.

EGGS
1 cup pickled beet brine from pickled beets (let pickle at least a day or two)
1 cup distilled vinegar
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 tsp whole black peppercorns
1/2 tsp whole allspice berries
1 bay leaf
1 red onion sliced
12 hard boiled eggs, peeled

Prepare hard boiled eggs and place in jar. Add brine and spices. Let sit for 2 days. Enjoy!

Rabbit Terrine with Pickle Girl's Beer Mustard Photo by Adriane White Photography — Rabbit Terrine with Pickle Girl's Beer Mustard Photo by Adriane White Photography

Preparing Rainbow Nicoise Salade Photo by Adriane White Photography — Preparing Rainbow Nicoise Salade Photo by Adriane White Photography

Rabbit Terrine with Country Mustard

as adapted from epicurious

This is a moderately difficult recipe, but if you are prepared with the right equipment its no more involved then making stock or pulled pork.

EQUITMENT

8 x 4 loaf pan

plastic wrap

cardboard

tinfoil

brick

colander

RABBIT & STOCK

1, 3 pound rabbit, cut into pieces

4 shallots, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

3 parsley sprigs

2 thyme sprigs

1 leek, rinsed and cut into discs

1 head garlic, left unpeeled and halved

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, cracked

1/2 teaspoon salt

6 cups water

4 teaspoons unflavored gelatin (from two 1/4-oz envelopes)

1 tablespoons red wine

ASSEMBLY

1/2 teaspoon fennel seeds, toasted

1/2 cup chopped green olives

1/3 cup salted pistachios, chopped

3 tablespoons thinly sliced chives

1 teaspoon thyme, chopped

1/2 teaspoon salt

3/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup seeded mustard

Remove fat, kidneys, and liver from rabbit. Put rabbit, shallots, carrots, parsley, thyme, leek, garlic, peppercorns, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 6 cups water in a 4-quart pot and bring to a boil, skimming off any froth that rises. Reduce heat and gently simmer rabbit, partially covered, until tender, about an hour. Cool rabbit in broth, uncovered for 30 minutes, then remove, reserving rabbit pieces and broth separately. Pour broth through a colander, discarding solids. If the broth measures more than 2 1/2 cups, boil to reduce. If it measures less, add water. Return it to a clean pot and bring to a simmer over medium heat. While broth is simmering, coarsely shred rabbit meat, being careful to remove all small bones.

Sprinkle gelatin over remaining 1/4 cup cold water and allow to soften for 1 minute, then whisk into hot broth until dissolved. Stir in wine and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste.
Lightly oil loaf pan and line with a sheet of plastic wrap large enough to drape over edges. Place loaf pan on a tray. Take a brick or a heavy object that can weigh down on top of the loaf pans and cover the brick with tin foil. Cut a piece of cardboard into shape of loaf pan and cover with plastic wrap and then tin foil.

Grind fennel seeds with a mortar and pestle or in an electric coffee/spice grinder and toss with rabbit, olives, pistachios, chives, thyme, salt, and pepper in a large bowl.

Place cardboard and brick on top of terrine, creating just enough pressure to press cardboard about 1/2 inch into terrine (some broth will spill over onto tray). Chill terrine on tray 3 hours, then remove weights.

To unmold terrines, unwrap plastic wrap and invert onto a long narrow platter, pulling slightly on plastic to release terrines from molds. Cut terrine to desired width and serve with mustard and bread. Enjoy!

Photo by Adriane White Photography — Photo by Adriane White Photography

Bonny Doon Wine Pairings by Seth Heitzenrater

The Table Photo by Adriane White Photography — The Table Photo by Adriane White Photography

Cheesin Hard Photo by Adriane White Photography — Cheesin Hard Photo by Adriane White Photography

The Lovely Ladies Photo by Adriane White Photography — The Lovely Ladies Photo by Adriane White Photography

The Table at Big Table Farm in Gaston, Oregon

Goateo + Rooster at Big Table Farm in Gaston Oregon — Goateo + Rooster at Big Table Farm in Gaston Oregon

Hand drawn Labels by Claire at Big Table Farm

Blackberry Fields in Talent, Oregon — Blackberry Fields in Talent, Oregon

The Bridge at Hama Hama Oytsers in Lilliwaup, WA

Hammocking in the oyster fields at Hama Hama Oysters in Lilliwaup, Washington — Hammocking in the oyster fields at Hama Hama Oysters in Lilliwaup, Washington

One of the best parts of touring in the summer is that we can camp pretty much everywhere we go. Many of the farmers share their land with us and I absolutely love sleeping out under the stars.

I've been hammocking the last couple of years and my confidant Marta and I always joke we are hammock missionaries because we have converted so many people to the hammock lifestyle. The storage, assembly and sleep are simply the best when it comes to camping. The tiny hammock opens up into a full bed that you can hang from just about any two sturdy beams, from trees to dock pilings, green house posts, barns and porches. The best thing about the hammock is that after a long 12 hour day I get to kick up my feet and sleep. Its my favorite way to catch some zzz's.

Our greatest hammock location to date was in Lilliwaup, Washington, where Marta, who is a natural hammock location scout, decided we should hang from an eccentric dock piling that would become partially submerged that night as the tide came in. Sure enough we both woke at 2 in the morning to the sound of rising water just a foot and half from our hammocks. The stars were glittering above us and we were safe from the water in our nests. We laughed at the absurdity of it all, and drifted back to sleep. I awoke again to a breathtaking sunrise on the Puget Sound and hopped up for work. That day we hosted guests in an estuary that was half submerged during dinner service, the kitchen, dish pit and staff all with water up to our knees as guests sat at the table which was just far enough away from the rising tide.

Caterpillars Hammocking at Local Roots Farm in Duvall, Washington — Caterpillars Hammocking at Local Roots Farm in Duvall, Washington

Estuary Landscape at Hama Hama Oysters in Lilliwaup, WA

Paella

as adapted from My Recipes

HERBES

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 large garlic cloves, minced

PAELLA

1 cup water

1 teaspoon saffron threads

3 16 oz chicken broth

1/2 pound unpeeled jumbo shrimp

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 skinned, boned chicken thighs, cut in half

2 links Spanish chorizo sausage

2 cups chopped onion

1 cup chopped red bell pepper

1 cup canned diced tomatoes

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

3 large garlic cloves, minced

3 cups uncooked Arborio rice or other short-grain rice

1 cup frozen green peas

8 mussels, scrubbed and debearded

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

Lemon wedges

Combine parsley, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. Set aside.

Combine water, saffron, and broth in a large saucepan. Bring to a simmer Keep warm over low heat. Peel and devein shrimp, leaving tails intact; set aside.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in a large paella pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add chicken; saute 2 minutes on each side. Remove from pan. Add sausage and saute 2 minutes. Remove from pan. Add shrimp, and saute 2 minutes. Remove from pan. Reduce heat to medium-low. Add onion and bell pepper; saute 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add tomatoes, paprika, and 3 garlic cloves; cook 5 minutes. Add rice; cook 1 minute, stirring constantly. Stir in herb blend, broth mixture, chicken, sausage mixture, and peas. Bring to a low boil; cook 10 minutes, stirring frequently. Add mussels to pan. Cook 5 minutes or until shells open. Arrange shrimp and cook 5 minutes or until shrimp are done. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup lemon juice. Remove from heat; cover with a towel, and let stand 10 minutes. Serve with lemon wedges, if desired.

Campsite Meals in Pemberton, British Columbia

The Table at North Arm Farm in Pemberton, British Columbia

The Kitchen at North Arm Farm in Pemberton, British Columbia

After reaching Washington, we crossed the border into Canada, giddy to be abroad and excited to check out the bustling food scene of Vancouver. We slept in our hammocks on a couchsurfer porch and headed to University of British Columbia's Farm and I was impressed by the immense bounty of the farm made possible by inspired students. The guests were a mix of Canadians and ex-pats and were very friendly. We snacked on incredible blueberries from the farm and were chased out by the mosquitos looming in the tall grass as the sunset.

Then we hit the 99 North and found our way to North Arm Farm in Pemberton. We arrived at dusk to the foot of Mount Currie and couldn't believe the beauty we were surrounded by. The misquotes however viciously chewed us out again and we sought refugee in tents. The dinner proved to be a challenge as thunderstorms kept unexpectedly turning into the valley. We moved the table to a nearby barn for shelter from the rain, but as Jim expected the sky parted and we rushed to move the table back into the field. It was a pleasure to connect with the proud Canadian Chefs, we joked about our respected accents and exchanged war stories. They left us with a bounty of food and we packed up and headed South for the border, we had a 20 hour drive ahead of us to Wyoming.

Mead Ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyoming — Mead Ranch in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Mosquito Lake in Pemberton, BC — Mosquito Lake in Pemberton, BC

Marta detailing the Table at Big Table Farm in Gaston Oregon

Satellites Stretching in British Columbia

Fields & Mount Currie at North Arm Farm in Pemberton, British Columbia

Seqouiah & Marta admiring the Lost Coast — Seqouiah & Marta admiring the Lost Coast

Jimbo helping Marta from her Nest in Lilliwaup, Washington

Farm Dinner Fashion in Jackson Hole, Wyoming

Goat Roast at Monteillet Fromagerie in Dayton, WA

Oregon Produce at Big Table Farm in Gaston, OR

Corn Cake with Strawberries and Wildflower Cream by Chef Robin Song at Front Porch Farms in Healdsburg, California — Corn Cake with Strawberries and Wildflower Cream by Chef Robin Song at Front Porch Farms in Healdsburg, California

May Daze

May 20, 2015

Miles Traveled in California to date appox. 2346 km/ 1457 miles

Well its that time of year again folks, farm dinner season is upon us! I have been moving about the central coast and once again find myself working with Outstanding in the Field. The culinary circus kicked off their public tour a couple of weeks ago and we have been galavanting in some of the most pristine pockets of California. The days are long in the hot sun where we set our tables but I have remained grateful for my time in these magical places. The long drives, heavy lifting and as my pedometer recently informed me, an average walk of over 10 miles during service, keeps me fit and the food we serve, leaving me inspired.

Our first week brought us to the rolling hills of Pescadero, to a 6th generation cattle ranch called Markegard Family Grass Fed. The family farm is home to a substantial herd of Belted Galloways that graze on the otherworldly 6,000 acres of preserved coastal pastures.

I had just finally got around to finishing one of my required California readings, The Grapes of Wrath and the novel gave words I could never find to the breathtaking landscapes of California. As we set the table in the pastures of Pescadero, I stare into the hills and remember Steinbeck's words, "The full green hills are round and soft as breasts".

Belted Galloways at Markegard Family Grass Fed in Pescadero, California

Spring Gem Lettuce + Strawberries + Walnuts & Wildflowers by Chef Robin Song at Front Porch Farms in Healdsburg, California — Spring Gem Lettuce + Strawberries + Walnuts & Wildflowers by Chef Robin Song at Front Porch Farms in Healdsburg, California

Springtime has leant itself to wildflowers, spring onions, lamb and strawberries littering our menus and the hot days are soon blanketed with thick fog coming off the Pacific and the cool breeze has me craving hearty stick to your bones food.

Spring Onion Ragot with Fava Beans + Chicken Apple Sausage

3 chicken apple sausages, sliced

5 small spring onions, sliced

3 heads green garlic, sliced

1 garlic scape, sliced

1/2 cup red wine

1 cup fava beans, roughly chopped

1/2 cup fresh Chèvre

2 tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil

salt & pepper, to taste

In a cast iron skillet over medium high heat, sear the sausages. Once browned, add the onions and cook for 5 minutes. Add garlic and scapes and sauté until hot. Add the wine and deglaze the pan. Add chopped fava beans. Cook for another 5 minutes and serve. Top with fresh chèvre, olive oil and salt and pepper.

I took some time to venture to San Francisco with a girlfriend and as we drive up the iconic Highway 1, I beheld the raw coastline that no matter how many times I drive along it, still leave me breathless. We bopped around San Francisco, relishing the ethnic food that is somehow void in Santa Cruz, admire the architecture and I slept on my friends fire escape in her camping hammock. Awoken by the sun we head to my favorite boutique Japanese knife shop Bernal Cutlery to cash in my free sharpening I earned last year, leaving me itching to practice knife techniques in the kitchen.

Soba Noodle Bowl with Spring Peas, Radish and Carrot

Serves 2

6 ounces soba noodles

1 cup spring peas, sliced

5 radishes, cleaned & sliced thin

2 large carrots, julienned

1 handful micro greens

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoon soy sauce

1/4 cup rice vinegar

chili flakes, salt, fresh ground pepper, to taste

Cook soba noodles to packaged instructions. Place noodles in serving bowls. Place peas, radish, carrots and micro greens in little bundles atop of the noodles. Drizzle sesame oil, soy sauce and vinegar over top. Season with chili, salt and pepper. Serve immediately or top with broth. Add a poached egg if you're feeling frisky!

Ramblings at Alan Chadwick Gardens at UCSC Santa Cruz, California

Meat & Cheese Spread in Oakland, California

I then found time to stage with the infamous Pickle Girl of Felton, Emily Eder at the Cremer House and learned some of the tricks of her pantry. We broke down 20 pounds of carrots and reminisce about our days at Camp Joy. I am lucky enough to make off with one of her legendary recipes.

Toasty Pickling Spices for more depth of flavor — Toasty Pickling Spices for more depth of flavor

Front Gate at Camp Joy Gardens in Boulder Creek California

Emily's Dill Pickled Carrots

1 lb Carrots, cut into sticks

1/4 cup picked dill

3 large garlic cloves, chopped

1 tbsp chili flakes

1/2 tsp fennel seeds

1/2 tsp black pepper

1/4 tsp celery seed

1/4 tsp mustard seed

1 tsp dill seed

Brine-

1 cup Apple Cider Vinegar

1 cup Water

3 tbsp sugar

1 1/2 tbsp salt

In a large mason jar intermittently layer carrots, dill, garlic, and seasonings. In a medium sauce pan combine Apple Cider Vinegar, water, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil. Remove from heat and pour over carrots. Keep in fridge for a week and enjoy for up to a month. If canning, prepare jars and store to packaged instructions.

The Outstanding tour soon moves north into Petaluma and the hills become grander and more immense and we watched the cattle parade home for feeding and milking. Steinbeck's dreamy white farm houses of California echo in my mind at Dolcini Ranch.

Doug Dolcini a 5th generation rancher whose family has been on the land since the 1870's, took a shine to me after we shared a beer on his porch and talked raising animals for slaughter. The ranch has seen many hands and I wonder about the family that has defended, shepherded and protected this land and moved it for over a 140 years. The fog cooled our bones and David Retsky of County Line Harvest who leases land from the Dolcini's for vegetables offered us his insulated yurt, complete with a fire place and outdoor kitchen. We rest for the night, all 12 of the crew packed into the tiny yurt, giggling with joy that we do not have to brave the chilly night. We awake with the fog and cook a feast of last nights leftover rabbit meatballs topped with Kitty Dolcini's pastured eggs atop. It is Mother's Day and we all take time to make contact with our mamas and thank them for brining us to this beautiful earth.

Strawberry Rhubarb Galette

Crust
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon table salt

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

Zest of half a lemon

8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into pieces

1/4 cup ricotta, yogurt or sour cream

3 to 4 tablespoons cold water

Combine flour, salt, sugar and lemon zest in a large bowl. Add butter pieces and work into a coarse meal, so the butter turn into roughly the size of a pea. Add water to ricotta and knead into dough. Make a ball and wrap in plastic. Flatten into a disc. Chill for at least an hour.

Filling

makes 6 pints
3 pound fresh strawberries, hulled and sliced

2 pound fresh rhubarb stalks, leaves removed

3 1/2 cups granulated sugar

METHOD

Wash & clean berries and rhubarb. Hull berries and slice in half, set aside in bowl. Chop rhubarb into 1/2 inch pieces and place in the bowl with the berries. Cover with sugar and stir. Set aside for a minimum of 2 hours or overnight.

When the juices are released from the fruit pour into a large skillet over medium heat. Bring to a rapid boiling, stirring often for about 10 minutes or until the juice is thick. Remove from heat.

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. On parchment paper roll out dough until about a 1/4 of an inch thick. Cut into pentagon shape. Lay strawberry rhubarb mixture atop of dough and gently fold dough around filling.

Glaze
1 egg yolk beaten with 1 teaspoon water

coarse sugar, for sprinkling

With a pastry brush, brush yolk mixture on outside of pastry and sprinkle with sugar. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 minutes or until golden brown. Cool & enjoy!

I then find myself in Healdsburg, California in Sonoma County, land of Olive Oil and Fine Wine. I hang my hammock in the tree tops along the Russian River and serve Miyagi Oysters to thrilled guests at Front Porch Farms. I relish the biodynamic plants that are perky and abundant at Preston Vineyards and we serve dinner amongst the 60 year old grape vines that produced the fermented juices I am pouring into guests glasses, directly in front of them.

OITF Dinner in Healdsburg at Preston Vineyards

OITF Dinner in Pescadero at Markegard Family Grass Fed — OITF Dinner in Pescadero at Markegard Family Grass Fed

I arrive back to Santa Cruz exhausted from the back to back dinners and find myself hosting a potluck of young, ambitious, healthy farmers who have all decided to gather at my house. We throw together whatever we please and the dinner is impressively cohesive. Deanna's Salade Niçoise steals the show with its hearty & salty nourishment. I fall into a deep slumber and awake to the Pacific Ocean out my window and am once again grateful for my community and the beautiful food that seems endlessly abundant in California.

Salade Niçoise

Vinaigrette

3 tablespoons apple cider vinegar

1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 stalks green garlic, minced

1 cups flat-leaf parsley leaves, loosely packed and minced

3/4 cup of tarragon, loosely packed and minced

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Combine all ingredients and shake together in mason jar. Set aside.

Salade

5 bunches fresh garden greens

20 anchovy fillets

2 pounds of tiny new potatoes, steamed & sliced

5 farm eggs, hard-boiled, peeled & sliced

1 cup radishes, halved

1 cup steamed beets, sliced

1 cup niçoise olives

salt and pepper, to tast

In a large salad bowl, lay salad greens. Lay anchovies, potatoes, hardboiled eggs, radish, beets, and olives atop. Dress with vinaigrette and toss. Serve immediately.